What is Cire Perdue - or Lost Wax - in Jewellery?
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Cire Perdue is one of the oldest and most enduring techniques in jewellery making. Used for circa 6500 years, it allows a piece to be created with a level of detail, fluidity, and individuality that cannot be achieved through mass production.
At its core, the process is simple in principle, but highly skilled in execution.
A form is first created in wax. This stage is entirely hands-on — carved, shaped, and refined until the piece reaches its final shape. The wax model is then encased in a mould, and through heat, the wax is melted away, leaving behind a cavity. Molten metal is poured into this space, taking on the exact shape of the original form.
Once the metal cools, the mould is broken open.
The original wax no longer exists.
What remains is a single, solid piece — directly translated from the hand that made it. Unless, of course, the cast has failed - in that case, hours of carving wax work have been lost and the artist must start from scratch.
Why this process matters
Cire Perdue is not just a method of production. It is a way of working that prioritises process, intention, and individuality.
Because the original wax model is destroyed during casting, each piece carries a sense of finality. It cannot be replicated in exactly the same way. This makes the technique particularly suited to one-of-a-kind jewellery.
The process also allows for more organic, sculptural forms. Wax can be shaped intuitively, responding to touch rather than strict measurement. This gives the finished piece a sense of movement and presence that feels closer to sculpture than traditional jewellery.
Yes, some jewellers make silicone moulds of their wax pieces, and cast several copies. I don't do this in my studio, for the simple fact that I feel every piece is unique. A copy just doesn't feel the same to me, and therefore I avoid it.
The marks of making
One of the defining characteristics of Cire Perdue is the ability to preserve the subtle traces of its creation.
Rather than removing every mark, many contemporary jewellers choose to retain elements of the process — small variations, surface shifts, and the movement of the hand. These are not imperfections, but part of the final expression of the piece.
They speak to how it was made, and to the time invested in its creation.
A contemporary approach to an ancient technique
While the method itself is ancient, its application continues to evolve.
Today, Cire Perdue sits at the intersection of tradition and contemporary design. It allows artists to work freely with form, while still grounding their practice in a time-honoured technique.
For those who value process, individuality, and material integrity, it offers something that mass-produced jewellery cannot:
A direct connection between maker, material, and finished piece.